Today, through a significant selection of our timepieces, all available on the Deangelis online shop, we will share some intriguing insights about the world of vintage watchmaking. In this article, our focus will be on a few recent arrivals, including a rare Breguet Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 3757 in Platinum, a Rolex Daytona 6265, an exceptionally scarce Cartier Tank Asymetrique in Platinum, and a captivating Patek Philippe World Time 5130 in rose gold.
In this exquisite example of the Breguet Classique 3757PT, we find encapsulated two of the most fascinating and challenging complications in watchmaking, of which Breguet was a pioneer: the tourbillon and the perpetual calendar. Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the Tourbillon system in 1801, which is why every Breguet watch with this mechanical complication bears the inscription "Brevet du 7 Messidor An 9" (meaning: 26th June 1801, according to the Gregorian calendar), visible on the underside of the movement through the caseback.
How can one not be amazed by the intricately hand-finished floral motif engraved on the movement? Encased within the 40mm platinum case featuring Breguet's signature "coin edge" work on the sides, the dial showcases guilloché finishing and registers with silver chapter rings indicating the retrograde date and leap year indicator.
The reference 6265 was introduced to the market in 1969 and ceased production in 1987. While this reference was primarily manufactured with stainless steel cases, limited quantities were also produced with 18-carat or 14-carat yellow gold cases. Despite its nearly two decades of production, it's estimated that Rolex created no more than 2000 gold examples, of which around 750 were in 18ct yellow gold. One of the features of the new Caliber 727 (found in ref. 6262, 6263, 6264, and 6265) is its chronometer functionality. While the steel Daytonas were not COSC-certified, movements for gold cases were sent to Biel/Bienne to be modified and finished to meet COSC parameters and achieve chronometric certification. Aesthetically, it's essentially identical to the steel models, but the tone of gold combined with the champagne dial and contrasting black subdials imbues it with understated elegance despite being a professional model.
After making its debut in 1936, the Cartier Tank Asymétrique - originally known as Paralélogramme - saw rebirth in various forms in the '90s and 2000s, always in limited editions, underscoring its significance in Cartier's history. The Tank Asymétrique was relaunched in 2020, offered in platinum, rose gold, and yellow gold, with only 100 pieces produced in each precious metal. The watch we present, available in our Deangelis shop, is decidedly rare and little known. Specifically, the Cartier Tank Asymétrique 4285 was created in a limited edition of only 16 pieces to celebrate the reopening of the Milan boutique.
This platinum Tank Asymétrique features Bordeaux accents on the dial at 1 and 6, with a dial layout distinct from the standard. The number 16 is highly pertinent, recalling the street address of the Cartier boutique in Milan, located at Via Montenapoleone 16. The watch is complete with all its original accessories and represents a true rarity for the most discerning Cartier collectors.
In 2006, the Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5130 made its entrance, taking over from the ref. 5110 that had debuted in 2000. While it's widely agreed that the aesthetics of both references were extremely similar, the new model stood out with a larger case, measuring 39.5mm in diameter, an increase from its predecessor's 37mm.
Considered by collectors as one of the most iconic Patek Philippe watches, the World Time was originally conceived by Louis Cottier in 1935 using ingenious rotating internal discs displaying 24 cities covering all time zones. In transitioning to modern times, the mechanism has retained its essence, thanks to its undeniable practicality and ease of use. Released in all four precious metal variants, ref. 5130 ceased production in 2016, making way for the subsequent ref. 5230.
The wristwatch we offer in rose gold, in splendid condition, comes with the official Patek Philippe sales warranty."
